Hungry

Last night the realisation hit me that I am hungry for nature. The narrow stone alleyways and ancient castles and churches may be fascinating, but they are no replacement for the sound of waves crashing along a rocky shore or the smell of giant Douglas firs and moist blankets of fallen needles.

I miss the mountains, the dark blue sentinels against the sky. I miss the clacking song of creeks and the wash of the sea against a patch of smooth round pebbles. I am thirsty for the rain that falls all day on cedars and hemlocks and firs and makes them grow taller than anywhere else. I am hungry for the soft grass of my backyard, the lilac and the plum tree I grew up beneath, the dirt road beside our family home leading down to a secluded corner of the beach. The sun often sets with a dramatic spill of orange and pink, spreading out across the horizon and morphing into different shapes and hues within minutes, as the burning ball of the sun suddenly drops behind the mountains, rushing to go to sleep as it reaches the finish line.

To my dismay, the river that once soothed me here in Seville has revealed itself as a murky, polluted soup of bags and bottles, unfit for swimming according to the signs in the park. The grass is parched and the trees along the river are planted in neat rows. The parks are manicured and there is no forest to speak of, and no place to get away from the throngs of locals and tourists taking advantage of spring before the deathly heat of summer hits. All the oranges have dropped and most streets are bare of greenery. I do not know where to escape from the sound of cars rushing by. Even along the river, the streets above echo with growling motors and squeaky breaks. The smell of cigarette smoke often drifts up to your nose as soon as you sit down on a park bench. I am going a bit mad these days.

I see a picture of my green home or some wild forest or beach and I begin to salivate. My soul is aching for a drink of that sweet, fresh, clean air of the country and the sigh of branches in the breeze. Finding my feet in a new country, a new culture, is proving challenging enough as I pose big questions such as what direction I want my life to go in, and how to lead a happy, productive, fulfilling life. But engaging in these human puzzles without a being able to escape and feed my spirit with the company of trees and ocean—and a little solitude to boot—feels like holding my breath. Like sleep deprivation. Like getting scurvy. This has been creeping up on me and even though the weather has cooled this week, I am feeling like a metaphysical peanut husk nonetheless.

But sometimes a thought lands in my mind with a heaviness that spreads down my body: I wonder if I will ever feel satisfied. If I lived in the cabin in the wild that I am currently yearning for, would I miss the bustle of the city? Would I miss the architectural jungles, the cafés and restaurants, the infinite variation of faces and personalities, the beauty of a bridge, the charm of a narrow street overlooked by balconies? I probably would, at least to some degree, as I seem to have a good dose of the-grass-is-always-greener syndrome. But I know it is not at the root of my yearning for contact with nature. Proximity to the natural world has always been my way of connecting with something bigger than myself, with a feeling of belonging and union, a deep sense of spirituality. I know that many people share a similar experience. I trust this need, and I do not worry that it is simply a case of wanting what I do not have. What worries me is that, wherever I go, I do not think anything outside of myself will satisfy this search, this restless search for… well, meaning. Very normal and human, I suppose. But some people appear to be a little more at peace in themselves, a little less itchy for movement, a little less antsy in their minds.

Then again, there would not be so many philosophies and practices for finding inner peace if we were not all in the same boat, more or less. I suppose that is why I practice yoga, enjoy learning new techniques to release myself from the grip of mental whirring, and also, why I write. The funny thing is, all these good and healthy practices for delving into this human condition and coming out better on the other side, are also endeavours that I resist. Even when I lived closer to nature—a ten minute walk from the beach, leafy Vancouver neighbourhoods or the idyllic Roberts Creek, mountains close enough to reach out and touch—there were times when I would feel a lack of connection, and I would know without a doubt that I needed to get out and walk along the beach or through a forest path. I would know I had been too distracted by all the things to do, all the interactions, all the thoughts, all the business of our western lifestyle. It would all start to weigh on me and I knew it could get much worse if I did not do something about it right then, and that no matter how I felt beforehand, going for a walk would help; maybe just a little, usually a lot, but either way it would help. And those were the times that I would resist it most. I would have to struggle against myself, internally whining that I did not feel like it, that it would be boring, that I was too tired, etc. But luckily, I usually pushed through, and it always helped.

These days my lack of connection has reached new levels, and I want nothing more than to find myself in a quiet green wood or isolated beach, and amble along for hours. Given the current circumstances, it is time to take the action available: hop on a bus this weekend to the Spanish coast, escape the city for a day and get some fresh sea breeze back in our lungs. One can hold one’s breath a lot better after a good dose of nature. Even writing about it makes it feel a little closer. I think I can hold out until the weekend after all.

P1060198

Hot Air

Creating a new routine in 40 degrees Celsius or more presents unexpected challenges for a west-coast Canadian. Back home, living by the sea keeps the temperature moderate; though we occasionally have heat waves into the mid-thirties, the average temperature in Vancouver during the summer would not be more than mid to late twenties. Sevilla recently experienced the hottest recorded temperatures in May ever. On one of these hot, dry afternoons—on my way to give some English lessons—I saw on a large digital thermometer that the air had reached 41 degrees by 3:30pm. The twenty minutes each way left me feeling crispy and exhausted. I came home to our apartment, with the blinds drawn to keep out the hot sun, drank a litre of water or so, landed on the couch and stayed there for a good five minutes without moving. The air is so dry outside that you do not really sweat until you come inside.

When Rob and I visited Australia during their summer a couple years ago, Melbourne also experienced a heat wave where temperatures neared forty degrees. Such heat waves are fairly normal there but luckily they are peaks in the average temperature and do not last the whole season. The air was dry like here, and I recall going for a run one morning, like a true green newbie, and coming back parched as a bone. As soon as I entered the cooler indoors I began dripping with sweat, while outside it had evaporated off my skin immediately. When the breeze blew, it was like standing in front of a giant hairdryer.

This aridity of Melbourne’s climate felt strange to me. I had travelled through hot towns in Central America where the temperature reached 38 degrees or so, but the climate was humid. Instead of feeling crispy you were constantly damp. Immediately after having a cold shower you started to sweat and there was simply no chance of ever having a dry forehead. I have always heard that humid temperatures feel worse, in that they really get into your bones (I have definitely experienced this to be the case with humidity in the winter; wet cold generally feels worse than dry cold). However, I am not convinced that I prefer dry heat. Maybe it has just been too long since I experienced those dripping afternoons of the tropics, but the task of crossing an arid landscape while the sun burns down with obscene intensity has begun to really scare me.

What scares me most is that the temperatures we just experienced are only the beginning. Sevilla is known for hot summers, ranging somewhere in the forties for at least a month or two. The other day my Spanish teacher told me he had once seen 53 degrees emblazoned on one of those digital thermometer signs (but luckily that is not the norm). The streets are deserted in the afternoons and everyone shuts up their windows as if something sinister were about to blow through the streets. I begin to wonder about our choice of Spanish cities, but there is no point in ruminating too hard on that. We made the decision based on a variety of factors and we are committed now, with Rob’s study visa tied to a great school here and our apartment leased until the fall. So we will just have to make do. We will visit my family in Denmark during the summer and perhaps we can work in a few other holidays. And besides that, well… time will tell. The fear of someone finding me like a dusty peanut husk in the street does frighten me. Alternatively, I fear escaping that fate only by hiding in a dim cave of an apartment all summer, fanning myself in a clammy heap in front of the one air conditioner. Again, time will tell.

From a bit of oral research, it appears that our hope lies in the mornings. The temperature cools through the night, and people get out for exercise and fresh air before midday. Looks like I will have to become an early bird for a few months, although with Spanish dinner culture not really coming alive until nine or ten… well, it is a puzzle we have yet to solve.

In the meantime I am enjoying the positively balmy days of 32 degrees or so, as the heat wave has temporarily given us reprieve. Yesterday I accompanied some friends to a beach about an hour or so away by car, and the air, the sun, the breeze—it was all perfect. It recharged me and filled my soul. There is hope yet. And the saying does go that what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, right? Survive this summer and build character!

weather-seville-3

A City Named Pomegranate

We spent five days in the hilly city of Granada. Seeing the mountain range of the Sierra Navada in the distance filled me with a wonderful sensation of both calm and exaltation, making me realise how much I miss not only the sea, but the tall blue mountains of the Canadian west coast too. While in Granada, I loved looking out from a hilltop and seeing the great mounds of indigo topped with white. It was also deeply satisfying to climb the narrow and winding streets, feeling the muscles working and the heart-rate rising, in comparison to the also charming but very flat Sevilla.

And of course, Granada is home to the famous Alhambra. I do not know where to begin in describing it. The collection of palaces, gardens and fortresses sits atop an enormous hill covered in deciduous forest, which in itself is stunning. Walking through the pathways beneath a luminous green canopy, listening to the sound of running water (Moorish fountains and streams abound alongside every  leafy passageway)—ah, I loved it. Although we only had tickets to enter the Alhambra grounds once (thanks to Robin heroically lining up at 6:20am!), I returned several times to the surrounding park to soak up the peace of trees and water.

DSCF3800

We visited the Alhambra the day after arriving in the city, entering the grounds just after opening time at 8:30am (those also hoping to purchase same-day tickets but who arrived after 7am probably did not make it in, judging by the long, thick, snaking queue that had formed when Robin’s parents and I joined him around 8am). We began wandering through the immaculate gardens in the clear, chilly morning, making our way to the Nasrid Palace for our entrance time of 10:30. Those Moorish kings really knew a thing or two about architecture! The vaulted ceilings, the archways, the brilliantly patterned and coloured tile-work, the minute details everywhere that form a breathtaking whole… an incredible place to visit. And throughout nearly every room and courtyard, the gentle babble of water flowed through fountains and troughs carved into the marble floors.

DSCF3825 DSCF4033 DSCF3826
Furthermore, you could not ask for a better view of Granada than from atop the Alhambra. With the control of such a vantage point, it is no wonder that, when the Spanish began to push the Islamic rulers out during the Reconquista, this city was the last to fall.

DSCF3924 DSCF4124

In order to obtain another beautiful view of the city and also of the Alhambra itself, we walked through the cobbled streets and up a hill to the Sacromonte district, which also happens to be the home of Granada’s Roma population (gypsies). These people suffered marginalization during much of Spain’s history, DSCF4127and were not permitted to live in the city with the Catholic citizens. Pushed out to the borders of Granada, they made ingenious use of the natural landscape—found in a semi-desert microclimate—digging caves into the hilly earth that became their homes and workshops, shielding them from the heat and costing very little to build. The Roma population continues to live in the caves in what has become a thriving neighbourhood. Many of the caves have been modernized, though some people still live in very rustic dwellings. Rob’s mum and I visited a fascinating little museum that exhibited some of the traditional caves, where we also learned that the Roma people and their music and dance traditions were key in the birth of Flamenco.

DSCF4128

Granada’s culture, architecture, landscape and delicious food left us all very happy with our time there, and I am sure we could have entertained ourselves for much longer. We said goodbye at the end of the week, Rob’s parents bound for Valencia and Barcelona and Rob and I for Sevilla. We caught the train back in the evening, with that post holiday mixture of satisfaction, wistfulness and readiness for your own routine again, which we are still in the process of building—an exciting prospect, really.

Tourist Tales

There is no better excuse to be a tourist in your own city than having visitors to show around. Not that Robin and I have been living in Sevilla long enough to have gotten over sight-seeing, but our focus has been more on establishing ourselves here and wandering the streets to get a general feel for the place, rather than seeing all the famous must-sees of the city, and we purposefully left the main tourist attractions here unvisited since we knew Rob’s parents would be coming in the spring. At any rate, we certainly have seen a lot cultural sites in the past couple of weeks.

We started out with Sevilla’s enormous cathedral – the largest cathedral in the world, in fact, and third largest church in the world (since the other two are not the seats of bishops, they are not considered cathedrals… or something like that). In typical Andalucian fashion, it was once a Muslim mosque, though most of the structure was rebuilt in the Gothic style in the fifteenth century. The Catholics had already been using the former-mosque for a couple of hundred years at that point, having gained control of Sevilla during the thirteenth century, IMG1984but they decided to reconstruct almost everything under the pretext that the building was in much  need of repair. However, they did keep the original Moorish minaret, converting it into a bell-tower—and christened La Giralda—and the courtyard of orange trees, interspersed with fountains and irrigation channels. Local legend claims that the members of the cathedral who decided to rebuild in a purely Christian style said, “Let us build a church so beautiful and so grand that those who see it finished will think us mad.”

It certainly was awing to enter such a vast, echoing and ornate chamber, and the views from the top of the Giralda reached far across the city of white buildings and terracotta roofs. The cathedral also houses the remains of Christopher Columbus, although we read in Rob’s parents’ Lonely Planet that some of his bones may actually lie buried in the Dominican Republic as well, since DNA testing on the bones has revealed both burial sites as containing his remnants.

IMG1979   IMG1990

The cathedral was undoubtedly impressive; however, the palaces and gardens of the Real Alcázar of Sevilla impressed us all even more. Though the cathedral appealed to my imagination and evoked days of old with its hushed, dimly lit halls, it was the Alcázar that really conjured images of ancient kings and queens living long ago, moving through the same dazzling rooms and gardens as crowds DSCF3694of camera-clad tourists do today. The modern day Spanish royal family still uses certain floors of the Alcázar, making it Europe’s oldest royal palace still in use. The entire site lies concealed from the rest of the city by a large wall which encircles the network of palaces and gardens. They too were once a Moorish stronghold, and much of the Muslim love of geometric shapes, tile-work and water features remain. The Christians constructed another palace in the mid-1300s, and added to existing ones, so certain sections of the Alcázar are almost entirely Gothic, and the gardens are arranged in different cultural styles, ranging from traditional to modern (including a small labyrinth which I thoroughly enjoyed wandering through).DSCF3651

Rob’s mum and I enjoyed the Alcázar so much that we returned to visit it again before she left Sevilla.

IMG2043 DSCF3689

The last event that we had saved for the visit of Rob’s parents was a professional flamenco show, which we attended on their last night in Sevilla. It was incredible. The guitarist wooed the audience with soft lulls and wild rasqueos, weaving the notes together seamlessly and leading us from crescendos to a soft tickle of the IMG2064strings with amazing dexterity. The singer’s voice was rich and gritty, and his long hair and expressive face added to the atmospheric story conjured by his song. Both the female and male flamenco dancers pounded the stage, or tablao, with their high-heeled shoes and twirled, paused and clapped with such passion that you could not help but feel its effect, causing nearly overwhelming surges of emotion to bubble up in the chest at times. Its moving intensity surprised us all.

IMG2067 IMG2065

By the end of the two weeks that Rob’s mamá y papá spent in Sevilla, we all felt very satisfied with our exploration of local cultural buildings and customs, and were ready to explore Granada… a tale for next time!